Car Repaint Price in the Philippines: 2026 Price List
These are typical 2026 ranges for a sedan at Metro Manila shops. SUVs, pickups and vans usually cost 20–40% more because there is more surface to prep and paint. Use the table to sanity-check a quote, not as a fixed price.
The gap between the cheapest and the best quote for the same job is often three times or more. Almost all of that difference is preparation time and paint quality, which the sections below explain. Always ask for an itemized quote that separates labor, materials and any body work.
| Job | Typical price | Time in shop |
|---|---|---|
| Machine buffing / one-step polish | ₱1,500–₱4,000 | Half a day |
| Multi-step paint correction | ₱3,000–₱8,000 (premium studios ₱10,000+) | 1–2 days |
| DIY touch-up paint, colour-matched | ₱300–₱1,000 | An afternoon (DIY) |
| Shop scratch or spot repair | ₱1,500–₱4,000 per area | 1 day |
| Paintless dent repair (PDR) | ₱1,500–₱5,000 per dent | 1–3 hours |
| Plastic bumper repaint | ₱3,000–₱6,000 | 1–3 days |
| Per-panel repaint (door, fender, hood) | ₱3,500–₱8,000 independent; ₱8,000–₱15,000 casa | 2–5 days |
| Full repaint, same colour (budget, open-air) | ₱15,000–₱25,000 | 5–10 days |
| Full repaint, same colour (2K paint, spray booth) | ₱30,000–₱70,000 | 1–3 weeks |
| Full repaint, premium or restoration | ₱80,000–₱150,000+ | 3–6 weeks |
| Colour change (jambs, engine bay edges, trunk) | ₱60,000–₱150,000+ | 2–4 weeks |
| Full vinyl wrap (reversible alternative) | ₱35,000–₱90,000 | 2–5 days |
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Before You Repaint: Buffing, Touch-Up and Dent Repair
Most paint complaints in the Philippines are not paint failure. Dull, chalky paint and fine swirl marks from years of sun and automatic car washes usually sit in the top layer of clear coat. A machine buff or paint correction removes a thin slice of that clear coat and brings the gloss back. Car buffing price in the Philippines starts around ₱1,500 for a one-step polish on a sedan; multi-step correction for heavier oxidation runs ₱3,000–₱8,000.
Use the fingernail test on scratches. If your nail does not catch, it is likely a clear-coat scratch that buffing can remove. If it catches, or you can see white primer or bare metal, buffing will not fix it. Small chips and short scratches can be filled with colour-matched touch-up paint (₱300–₱1,000 from auto paint suppliers or Lazada and Shopee, matched to the paint code on your door-jamb sticker), or a shop can spot-repair and blend a small area for ₱1,500–₱4,000.
Dents with unbroken paint, such as mall parking-lot door dings or small hail-type dents, are a job for paintless dent repair. A PDR technician works the metal back into shape from behind, so there is no filler and no repaint, and your factory paint stays original. Expect ₱1,500–₱5,000 per dent. That matters at resale, because buyers and appraisers check for repainted panels.
Per-Panel Repaint Cost vs Full Repaint
If damage is limited to one or two panels, like a scraped bumper, a keyed door or a fender dented in traffic, a per-panel repaint is the sensible fix. Expect ₱3,500–₱8,000 per panel at an independent body shop and ₱8,000–₱15,000 at a casa body shop. Hoods and roofs sit at the top of the range because they are larger and take the most sun.
Colour matching is the hard part. Solid white, black and red are the easiest. Metallic silvers and greys, and pearl or tri-coat colours like pearl white, need blending into the neighbouring panels so the new paint does not look like a patch in daylight. That adds labor and can turn a one-panel job into two or three, so ask the shop whether blending is included in the quote.
A full repaint only makes sense when the clear coat is peeling across several panels, the car has many mismatched old repairs, or you are restoring an older car you plan to keep. Once you are repainting five or more panels, a full-body quote often costs less than paying per panel.
What Makes One Quote ₱20,000 and Another ₱100,000
Preparation is most of the price. A proper repaint means sanding the old paint, treating rust, applying body filler (masilya) only where needed, then priming and sanding again before any colour goes on. Budget jobs save money by skipping steps: sanding lightly, painting over rust, or masking trim instead of removing it. That shows up within one or two rainy seasons as peeling, bubbling and overspray on rubber seals.
The paint system is the second factor. Mid-range and premium shops use two-pack (2K) urethane basecoat and clearcoat from established automotive paint brands, which holds up better to the Philippine sun. The cheapest open-air jobs often use single-stage or lacquer paint that fades and chalks faster.
The workspace matters too. A spray booth keeps dust, insects and humidity off wet paint and can bake the finish so it cures properly. Open-air painting in Metro Manila picks up dust and grit, so expect more buffing afterwards and a rougher finish.
Finally, size, colour and trim: SUVs and vans cost 20–40% more, pearl and tri-coat colours cost more, and removing handles, lights and moldings instead of taping over them adds labor but gives a cleaner, longer-lasting result.
Changing Your Car's Colour: Cost and LTO Paperwork
A colour change costs more than a same-colour repaint, typically ₱60,000–₱150,000 or more for a sedan, because the shop also has to paint the door jambs, the edges of the engine bay and trunk, and the areas behind trim. Skipping those spots is the giveaway of a cheap colour change: open the door and the old colour is still there.
The colour on your Certificate of Registration (CR) has to match the car. Before painting, ask your LTO district office for its current requirements for a change of colour. Owners are commonly asked for the original OR/CR, a written request or affidavit, the paint shop's job order or certification, and a vehicle inspection, and some offices also require a PNP-HPG motor vehicle clearance. A mismatch can cause trouble at registration renewal, at checkpoints and when you sell the car.
A vinyl wrap, about ₱35,000–₱90,000 for a full sedan, is the reversible alternative and protects the original paint underneath. If a wrap changes the car's main colour, ask LTO whether it needs to be recorded too. Tell your insurer about any colour change so your policy matches the vehicle.
How to Choose a Body and Paint Shop
Get at least two itemized quotes and ask the same questions at each shop. What paint system do you use, 2K basecoat-clearcoat or single-stage? Do you paint in a booth? Will you remove trim, handles and lights or mask them? Is blending into nearby panels included? How long will the job take, and is there a written warranty against peeling, bubbling or fading?
Ask to see a car they are finishing and look at it in daylight from an angle. Orange-peel texture, runs, dust bumps and overspray on rubber seals are easy to spot. A shop that rushes you through the quote will usually rush the prep too.
For accident damage, check your comprehensive policy before paying out of pocket. Own-damage cover usually pays for repainting the affected panels at an accredited shop after you pay the participation fee in your policy. It does not cover fading or oxidation from age.
CarCarePH lists body and paint specialists including Topline Auto Body and Paint Shop, Diskarte Paint Works, BensonPaintWerkz and Car Paint in Manila, Protech Auto Body Shop in Quezon City and Larkhen in Bacoor, plus paintless dent repair specialists Magic Touch in Muntinlupa and Roy Mataga in Manila. Listings show the address, contact details where available and map directions, so call ahead to confirm services, pricing and schedule.